Exploring the Churches of Casco Viejo, Panama

In 1671, the city of Panama Viejo was pillaged and burned by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates leaving only one of its many churches standing. After the survivors relocated to a rocky peninsula on the Bahía de Panama to start all over, not only did they construct a walled city but it included one of the largest churches in all of Central America. But as the city prospered, it had simply become too crowded and the population scattered northeast into what is now modern-day Panama City.

By the latter half of the 20th century, this historic quarter (known as Casco Viejo) had become something of the past. The approximately 800 buildings including several churches fell into serious disrepair. Fortunately in 1997, the World Heritage Site organization realized its true worth and added Casco Viejo to its select list. Since then, wonderful changes have been made especially due to a massive urban development project that has painstakingly restored many of the structures into their original brilliance.

Today, the quarter is also known by several other names such as San Felipe, Casco Antiguo, and of course, Casco Viejo. The churches in particular are some of the most picturesque and historically interesting with architectural styles that range from French and Spanish Colonial to baroque and neoclassical. In addition to its excellent museums and historic plazas, its churches should definitely be explored by any visitor.

Historic Churches of Casco Viejo

Photo by O. Polar

Catedral Metropolitana – Dominating the western side of the Plaza de la Independencia is one of the largest cathedrals in Central America. Built between 1688 and 1796, it was built using stones from the ruined cathedral at Panama Viejo and remained virtually abandoned until a badly needed restoration in 2003 had transformed it into what you see today. It is a fascinating mix of old and new architecture with the darkened stone and wooden main entrance flanked by the mother-of-pearl-encrusted, gleaming white bell towers. The interior is moderately decorated but the marble altar is worth seeing.  

Photo by Mel Panama

Iglesia Santo Domingo and the Arco Chato – Located on the corner of Avenida A and Calle 3 are the ruins of the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo. Built in 1678, it thrived until a fire devastated the building in 1756. Unfortunately, all that remains today is an outer shell that was never rebuilt. For more than three centuries, its entrance included an interesting flat arch known as the Arco Chato. At a height of approximately 35 feet with a 49-foot span, it was mostly noted for its lack of external support. This structure was so impressive that it was constantly cited as a powerful example of the country’s seismic stability when the United States considered taking over the Panama Canal project. But in November 2003, after centuries of neglect, the arch finally  gave in and collapsed. Today, the ruins are being restored with eventual plans that include cultural and artistic presentation space for the public. 

Iglesia San Jose – Located at the corner of Avenida A and Calle 8 is this church that dates back to 1673. Although it has since been remodeled, it is mostly known for its decorative baroque Golden Altar, one of the few treasures that survived Henry Morgan’s raid of Panama Viejo in 1671. According to a local legend, the altar was painted in black to disguise its real value. It consists of carved mahogany that is painted and veneered in gold.

Iglesia San Francisco de Asis – As seen in the photo at the top of this post, this is one of the smallest but most decorative churches in Casco Viejo. Built in the 17th century, it was devastated by a major fire twice: once in 1737 and again in 1756. Fortunately, it was beautiful restored in 1998 to what you see today. The church is generally closed during non-service hours but you can go to the parish office on Avenida B and ask to look inside. Generally, someone is usually willing to let you look around. Compared to its beautiful facade and bell tower, its interior is relatively uninteresting except for a wooden confessional that dates back to 1736. It is located next to the Plaza Bolívar.

Photo by Casco Viejo Tourism

La Iglesia San Felipe Neri – This small church was established in 1688 and it is one of the oldest in the area. It has served in many different roles ranging from a school and a seminary to a nursing home for the elderly. It has undergone several extensive restorations with its latest in 1995.

Photo by Mel O.R.

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús – Located at Avenida A and Calle 7, this Jesuit convent and church was built in 1673, just before the Spanish banished the Jesuits from the colonies. Around 1740, additional structures were added to accommodate a school that later became the first university in the city. Unfortunately, the entire complex burned down in 1781 and was never rebuilt. To make things worse, an earthquake in 1882 further damaged the structure. But today, it too is undergoing a thorough restoration.

La Iglesia de la Merced – Located at the corner of Avenida Central and Calle 9, this church dates back to 1680. Much like its larger counterpart, the Catedral Metropolitana, its baroque facade was built with stones from Panama Viejo and its two white bell towers stand in stark contrast to the darker stone entrance.

Exploring the Historical Attractions in Casco Viejo, Panama

Photo by Mel O.R.

After the original city of Panama Viejo was pillaged in 1671 by Henry Morgan and his notorious band of pirates, the survivors (under the orders of the King of Spain) moved to a rocky peninsula on the Bahía de Panama to begin again. Just two years later, the new city was completed with a massive seawall that made it much easier to defend against future invaders. As the city gained prestige and power, its population began to overflow the same walls that once protected them and spread toward the northeast into what is now modern-day Panama City.

But by the latter half of the 20th century, this older portion of Panama City (known as Casco Viejo) had become reduced to just a small historic quarter with a once glorious past. With a loss of influence and power, it gradually fell into disrepair and began to fade into history. But in 1997, Casco Viejo was declared a World Heritage Site and from that time, a massive urban development project has painstakingly restored a portion of the approximately 800 buildings back into their originial appearance. The restoration project is still underway supported by both the government and private sectors.

Currently, the district is known by several names: San Felipe, Casco Antiguo, and of course, Casco Viejo. It is the most picturesque and historically interesting area of Panama City. Everywhere you look, the historic buildings display a wide range of architectural styles that include French, Spanish Colonial , Art Deco, and even Caribbean. With its charming plazas, excellent museums, and historic churches, this former walled city has easily become one of the top destinations in the region, second only to the Panama Canal.

Historical Attractions in Casco Viejo

Photo by O. Polar

Plaza de la Independencia – This cobblestoned main plaza, also known as the Parque Catedral, is located in the heart of Casco Viejo at Calle 5 and Avenida Central. It is known for being the site where Panamanian independence was officially declared from Spain on November 3, 1903. This plaza includes a charming gazebo and plenty of shaded benches that makes it a great place to sit and watch people mingle, gossip, or just relax under the large Tabebuia trees. But most importantly for visitors, many of the area’s main attractions border the plaza and the mixture of the surrounding Spanish and French architecture offers many photo opportunities. Dominating its entire western side is the plaza’s original namesake, the Catedral Metropolitana, one of the largest cathedrals in Central America. In addition, the plaza is the site of the monthly Flea Market and Food Fair, which occurs one Sunday a month. With the right timing, you can sample food provided by the local restaurants, watch live musical entertainment, and bargain with the vendors selling everything from souvenirs and t-shirts to arts and crafts.

Photo by Mel Panama

Palacio Presidencial – Located two blocks north of the Plaza de la Independencia between Calles 5 and 6, is the official residence of the President of Panama. This palace was originally built in 1673 and served as the home to several colonial and Columbian governors. In 1922, it was rebuilt into its grand neo-Moorish style during the administration of President Belisario Porras who also introduced the white Darién herons to the property. Today, the herons continue to freely roam the grounds and the palace’s nickname has become the Palacio de Las Garzas because of them. For obvious security reasons, the building is closed to the general public, but the structure is worth visiting at least to snap a few photos.

Photo by Flora Torrance

Hotel Central – Located on the eastern side of the Plaza de la Independencia is the concrete shell of the Grand Hotel, which was (during its time) one of the most luxurious hotels in Central America. It was frequented by many dignitaries over the years and it is also known as the site where jubilant crowds gathered to celebrate the Independence from Spain in 1903 by pouring champagne over the head of General Esteban Huertas, who took part in the revolution. In 2004, the hotel was closed for a major restoration with plans to become a 140-room luxury hotel, one of the largest in the area. But at the time of this post, the hotel is still being completed despite the almost seven-year time span. It is one of many historic structures in Casco Viejo that are slowly being returned to their former glory.

Photo by Mel Panama

Plaza de Francia – Located south on Calle 1 at the southernmost tip of Casco Viejo, is a large square that was once the main plaza of the walled city. Enclosed on three sides by defensive seawalls, it was designed by Leonardo de Villanueva in honor of the approximately 22,000 thousand French workers who died from disease in a disastrous first attempt to build the Panama Canal. A French-style obelisk stands watch over the plaza and it includes a dozen marble plaques that offer vivid details about the tragedy. In addition to the monument, the French Embassy and the Instituto Nacional de Cultura, the plaza’s primary historic structure is Las Bovedas (The Vaults). During the colonial period, the plaza was a busy military center and the vaults under the walls once served as the city’s jail. Because the jail was built below sea level, high tides would sometimes flood the cells, drowning the unfortunate prisoners. Beautifully restored in 1983, the vaults are now home to an excellent French restaurant of the same name and a small art gallery. You can also walk on top of the seawall for excellent views of Panama City’s skyline and the line of large ships awaiting their turn through the Panama Canal.

Photo by Mel Panama

Teatro Nacional – Located just south of the Plaza Bolivar on Avenida B, this national theater opened its doors in 1908. Since it was designed by Genaro Ruggieri, who also designed the world famous La Scala Theater in Milan, it includes near-perfect acoustics and a highly decorated, red-and-gold interior complete with crystal chandeliers and dramatic busts of famous actors. Its highlight is the vaulted ceiling that depicts the birth of the nation created by Roberto Lewis, a well-known Panamanian artist. The entire building was beautifully restored in the early 1970s and 2000s, and visitors can take a docent-lead tour during opening hours.

Photo by Casco Viejo Tourism

Antiguo Club Union – Also known as the Club de Clases y Tropas, this bombed ruin overlooking the sea to the east was once a club for Manuel Noriega and other Panamanian elite. Destroyed by Noriega’s National Guard during the U.S. invasion, its position on the waterfront is still an interesting site mostly for its view of modern Panama City’s skyline. The site was also used for a formal ball scene in the 2008 James Bond film “Quantum of Solace.” It is located on the seafront northeast of the corner of Avenida A and Calle 1. At the time of the post, the area is completely closed due to renovations, but you can still view it from the outside.

For those interested in exploring the number of historic churches in Casco Viejo, check out my post: Exploring the Churches of Casco Viejo, Panama.

Exploring the Museums in Casco Viejo, Panama

After the city of Panama Viejo was destroyed by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates in 1671, the survivors (under the direct orders of the King of Spain) moved to a rocky peninsula on the Bahía de Panama to start all over again. By 1673, the new city was completed and it included a massive wall that made it much easier to protect against future invaders. As the city prospered, its population began to overflow the walls that once protected them and spread east into what is now modern-day Panama City.

But as Panama City continued to expand in the latter half of the 20th century, this area now known as Casco Viejo, continued had become reduced to just a small historic quarter with a once glorious past. With a loss of influence and prestige, it gradually fell into disrepair and began to disappear into history. But in 1997, Casco Viejo was declared a World Heritage Site and since then, a massive urban development project has painstakingly restored a portion of the approximately 800 buildings back into their former glory. Currently, the restoration project is still underway supported by both the government and private corporations.

Today, the district is known by several names: San Felipe, Casco Antiguo, and of course, Casco Viejo. It is the most picturesque and historically interesting part of Panama City. Everywhere you turn, the historic buildings display a combination of architectural styles that range from French and Spanish Colonial to Art Deco and Caribbea. With its charming plazas, beautiful churches, and excellent museums, this former walled city has easily become on the of the top tourist attractions in the city, second only to the Panama Canal. 

The Museums in Casco Viejo

Photo by Mel Ortega

Museo de Historia Panameña -  On the southwestern corner of the Plaza de la Independencia is the neoclassical Palacio Municipal that dates back to to 1910. It includes a small but impressive history museum on the second floor and its collection of paintings, documents and sculptures cover the entire history of Panama. The collection is grouped into three overall historical periods: Colonial (1501 to 1821), Departmental (1821 to 1903), and Republican (1903 to the present. It is a great place to learn about the country's history and it only takes about an hour. The museum is open Mondays through Fridays from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Museo del Canal Interoceánico - Located on the southeastern side of the Plaza de la Independencia is the Panama Canal Museum, established in 1997. For those who want to learn more about the Panama Canal, the exhibits in this museum include a wide array of photographs, videos, and documents (such as the original canal treaties) that cover the triumphs and tragedies of the canal from the first attempt by the French to the successful completion by the United States. All of the displays are in Spanish but English-speaking guides as well as audio tours are also available for a small additional fee. The building itself dates from 1874 and it has served many roles ranging from office space for the original French and U.S. Canal Companies to the main post office in 1912. The museum is open Tuesdays through Sundays from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. More information can be found at their website: www.museodelcanal.com.

Photo by Casco Viejo Tourism

Museo de Arte Religioso Colonial - This small museum is located in the former chapel of the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo at Avenida A and Calle 3. Built in the second quarter of the 1700s, this historic building was fortunately restored in 1974 without destroying any of its original structure. The museum includes the most complete collection of colonial religious art in the country with pieces that range from 18th-century paintings and wood carvings to an engraved silver cross that dates back to the 16th century. What is most impressive is that many of the pieces in the collection actually survived the pillaging of Panama Viejo where they were once located. The museum is open from Tuesdays through Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Photo by Saphira

Museo de la Esmeralda - Located in a former bank on Calle 6 just north of the Plaza de la Independencia, this small museum covers the complete history of emeralds, its mining process and its lucrative industry. It even includes a replica of an emerald mine in the former bank's vault that you can enter and view (although children seem to enjoy it much more than adults). Admission to the museum is free, but the assumption is that you will be enticed to purchase something at the on-site emerald jewelry store before or after exploring the museum. The museum is open Mondays through Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Exploring the Plazas in Casco Viejo, Panama

After the destruction of Panama Viejo by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates in 1671, the survivors (under the orders of the King of Spain) relocated to a rocky peninsula on the western edge of the Bahía de Panama to start over. By 1673, the new city was built complete with a massive wall that made it much easier to defend and from that period on, the city began to prosper. Its population eventually overflowed the walls that once protected them and spread rapidly toward the northeast into what has become modern-day Panama City and its suburbs.

But as the larger and more modern Panama City continued to expand in the latter half of the 20th century, Casco Viejo had become just a small district with a once glorious past. With no more power and prestige, it slowly fell into disrepair and began to fade into history. Fortunately, Casco Viejo was officially declared a World Heritage Site in 1997 and since then, a massive urban development project has painstakingly restored many of the approximately 800 buildings back into their former glory. At the time of this post, the restoration project is still underway by both the government and private sectors and you will see many ruins in between the gleaming new restorations.

Today, the district is known by several names: San Felipe, Casco Antiguo, and of course, Casco Viejo. It remains the most picturesque and historically interesting part of Panama City due to its structures that display a complete mix of architectural styles including French, Spanish Colonial, Republican, Art Deco and even Caribbean. With so much to see, it comes as no surprise why this former walled city is now one of the most visited tourist attractions in the region, second only to the Panama Canal.

Plazas in Casco Viejo

Photo by O. Polar

Plaza de la Independencia - This cobblestoned main plaza, also known as the Parque Catedral, is located in the heart of Casco Viejo at Calle 5 and Avenida Central. It is known for being the site where Panamanian independence was officially declared from Spain on November 3, 1903. This plaza includes a charming gazebo and plenty of shaded benches that makes it a great place to sit and watch people mingle, gossip, or just relax under the large, flowering Tabebuia trees. But most importantly for visitors, many of the area's main attractions border the plaza and the mixture of the surrounding Spanish and French architecture offers many great photo opportunities. Dominating its entire western side is the plaza's original namesake, the Catedral Metropolitana, one of the largest catedrals in Central America. In addition, the plaza is the site of the monthly Flea Market and Food Fair, which occurs one Sunday a month. With the right time, you can sample food provided by the local restaurants, watch live musical entertainment, and bargain with the vendors selling everything from souvenirs and t-shirts to arts and crafts.

Plaza de Francia - Located south on Calle 1 at the southernmost tip of Casco Viejo, is a large square that was once the main plaza of the walled city. Enclosed on three sides by defensive seawalls, it was designed by Leonardo de Villanueva in honor of the approximately 22,000 French workers who died from disease in a disastrous first attempt to build the Panama Canal. An obelisk stands watch over the plaza and it includes a dozen marble plaques that offer vivid details about the tragedy. In addition to the obelisk, the French Embassy, and the Instituto Nacional de Cultura, the plaza's primary historic structure is Las Bovedas (The Vaults). During the colonial period, the plaza was a busy military center and the vaults under the walls once served as the city's jail. Because the jail was built below sea level, high tides would sometimes flood the cells, drowning the unfortunate prisoners. The vaults, beautifully restored in 1983, are now home to an excellent French restaurant of the same name and a small art gallery. You can also walk on top of the seawall for excellent views of Panama City's skyline and the line of large ships awaiting their turn through the Panama Canal.

Plaza Bolivar - Located at Avenida B and Calle 4, this small but charming plaza was dedicated in 1883 to Simón Bolívar, whose statue stands in its center crowned with a condor. The plaza is lined with small cafes and restaurants complete with large umbrellas to sit and enjoy the view of the surroundings. On the northeast corner of the plaza is an old monastery where Bolívar and Pan-American Congress first convened in the building's chapter room in 1826. The building was beautifully restored but unfortunately, it now houses government offices that are off limits to the general public. But you can still admire it from the outside as you enjoy your espresso on the square. Next door is the Iglesia San Francisco de Asis, one of the smallest but most decorative churches in Casco Viejo. Built in the 17th century, it was devastated by a major fire in 1737, and again in 1756. Fortunately, it was restored in 1998 and although the interior is fairly uninteresting, its facade and bell tower is truly magnificent.

Photo by Lou Feltz

Plaza Herrera - Located at Avenida A and Calle 9, this pleasant little plaza is lined with large 19th-century houses with some that have fallen into disrepair while others have been beautifully restored. Either way, the buildings provide a glimpse into this historic location's once prosperous past. Originally the site of the Plaza de Triunfo, where many bullfights were held, it was renamed in honor of General Tomás Herrera in 1922, who was the military leader of the an unsuccessful attempt for independence in 1840. He eventually served as the President of Columbia and was assassinated in 1854. The plaza's centerpiece is the statue of Herrera heroically poised on horseback.